School’s out for summer!

I have just left Granada for the tenth time! I always am sad and hoping it won’t be my last. These are my take aways from this trip.

** you can travel to a place many times and still not see it all. On this trip, I saw a new museum, found a new favorite restaurant and found a spot with the biggest free tapas I have ever had!

** immersion is the best way to learn a language. This not new, but as my Spanish improves, I am able to use it more and it allows me to improve even faster!

** putting yourself where you can learn makes it easier to learn. Again, not revolutionary but improvement is swifter when you commit time and money to making you show up.

** everyone wants to know the slang and cuss words. Part of understanding a language is understanding how “normal” people speak.

** watch EVERYONE to have a better understanding of social cues. I was watching someone at a bus stop and how they signaled they didn’t want to catch that bus by stepping away from the sign. While this may seem intuitive, much of what we understand is learned socially. Like, where you stand to order, how to pay at your favorite restaurant, or niceties on public transportation.

I am very aware of how lucky I am to be able to travel and to study abroad. I hope that my curiosity and ability to travel continues. For now, nos vemos Granada!

Photo from our cookie party on the last day of Spanish class. Check out the Alhambra in the background.

The beauty of poetry

Granada has a habit. It is to find the happy, sad, dark, loving and tragic all in the same place. Granda is the home to one of the most famous poets, Federico Garcia Lorca. It is also one of the homes of Flamenco, a poetic dance and music form.

There are two museums in this town dedicated to Lorca. One is in the center and is more modern. It houses some of his works and shows his dedication to so many art forms including theater, music, dance and art. Here is the link if you would like to visit.

https://www.centrofedericogarcialorca.es

Another beautiful homage to his life is his family home. It is maintained as a museum that is open to the public and gives the observer a feel for the intimacy of his family.located in a beautiful park within walking distance of downtown, this museum is worth a visit for all Lorca fans.

http://www.huertadesanvicente.com/?ved=2ahUKEwjb-7Tgu9WGAxUkcKQEHfqnCbIQgU96BAgjEAQ

One of my favorite examples of poetry literally in the streets is a drinking fountain that can be seen while strolling through the neighborhood, Sacromonte. It reads a little something like this “I would love to be this fountain in my neighborhood, for when you pass and drink, I would feel very close to your lips.”

What a place!!!

Too much for one post...the Alhambra

Yesterday, I went to the Alhambra with my friend. It was her first and my 5th or 6th time. This collection of palaces and gardens are jaw dropping in their beauty. Even though I have been there many times before, I always walk away with a sense of my own place in time and an appreciation for artists and workers that can create spaces that inspire.

The Nazaries: The last Moorish Kingdom in Spain was right here in Granada. This palace was created overtime by numerous kings and being inside of it is like being inside a kaleidoscope. Intricate patterns line the walls, plaster renderings of the Koran repeat in sequences. And the ceilings....the ceilings make you want to look to the heavens forever. The palaces are designed using water for sound and for air conditioning.

A practical hint: they have changed the ticketing process in the last few years. Like always, you need to buy WAY in advance. Now, you use your passport as your ticket after using it to purchase your ticket...my guess is so that people can’t scalp them.

My photo is going to show one of the exterior buildings as you exit with a long pool reflecting the exterior. These pools again, used for creating a visually stunning space and a demonstration of wealth, think water in the desert, creates a stunning image. I am breaking this up into two posts, as the gardens and other building deserve their own post.

A Royal Appearance!

My friend and I had the wonderful opportunity to attend the National Ballet of Spain. The show was amazing! I will describe the  show in a bit, but I need to name drop first.

As the recorded announcement told us there were five minutes before the show started, people started standing to take videos and her security detail made their presence known. At the time, we didn’t know who was coming in and didn’t find out until after the show.

QUEEN SOFIA attended the ballet!!! More here in the Spanish news article.

https://www.ideal.es/culturas/festival-granada/reina-emerita-dona-sofia-preside-ballet-generalife-20240609000743-nt_amp.html

The Spanish National ballet company was amazing! They danced tradition escuela bolera dance, had a very contemporary solo with live piano and closed out the show with a five part, live music, Flamenco series. The dancers were so clear and performed spectacularly. Such a beautiful performance and a royal night to remember!!!

Image is from sunset in the Generalife immediately before the show.

It’s still someone’s neighborhood…

One of the may things I like about traveling to Granada is staying in a neighborhood called the Albayzin. It has small, walking only streets and inviting plazas that offer a place to rest and outdoor tables where you can sit and have a drink or some food. While traveling is a luxury and I know I am very lucky, this space is STILL people’s’ homes. The residence here are very patient with us and are helpful when we need it. It doesn’t change that I try and be very aware of local habit and social norms.

For example, trash should be taken out at night. The trash trucks come in the middle of the night and no one wants to smell the garbage all day. The roads are narrow. You are expected to step out of the way when cars are coming. I bring my own bags to the grocery store to hopefully minimize my garbage. I think this is one of the best things about being allowed to join a neighborhood, the effort SHOULD be mine. It makes me feel a little better about the impact of tourism here.... and there is a lot of that!

One of the quirkier things about the neighborhood is the ritual of leaving clothes on certain corners. I have many times on the way out of town left clothes that I knew wouldn’t be used on my next stops. Yesterday, I picked up a sweater and am wearing it today. On the way out, I will leave it. While I have a few more days here, I am already a bit sad about leaving. Maybe I can find a way to borrow a bit of the Granada magic and bring it home with me ❤️

The best view just out of sight...

When you come to Granada an ABSOLUTE must is to go to the St. Nicolas overlook. You see a beautiful view of the Alhambra, a complex of Roman, Moorish and Royal Palaces. While I will write about this beautiful place later, I wanted to talk about an alternative to the St. Nicolas overlook.

Tucked away a little to the left side of the overlook when looking at the Alhambra is a contemporary Mosque. Built in 2003, this Mosque is a representation of the opening of this country to other cultures. I am not going to discuss religious politics here, but rather the beauty and peace that this place has. For more about its history, see this site:

https://mezquitadegranada.com/the-mosque/lang=en#:~:text=The%20Mosque%20%2D%20Mezquita%20de%20Granada

When you walk inside, you see a beautiful Carmen garden, complete with a fountain and doves enjoying the space. Not to mention the spectacular view of the Alhambra. The mosque is free and open to the public, but has limited hours and asks that viewers dress modestly while on the complex. There is a small coffee shop with pastries and other items. Get a coffee, take a seat and enjoy the space. If you are lucky, you might even hear a live call to prayer. Maybe even consider the history of the neighborhood and  the long past of this culturally rich country.

Back to school in June???

Back to school in June?

One of the reasons that I return almost every year to Granada is that there is a special school that I get to attend. As a teacher in public schools in the US, during summer break I try to take professional development, sleep in a bit and even do some additional work.

Granada has a Spanish Language and Flamenco school called Carmen de Las Cuevas. I LOVE going here. Not only are their schedules set up to accommodate the most amount of hours possible within a week, but with a flexible start of every week, one can do as much as 7 hours a day! The office staff is amazingly helpful and patient, the Spanish teachers are always energetic and kind. The dance staff is comprised of professional dancers who you can see in many of the local tablaos.

When you walk up to the school from the outside one might be surprised about how beautiful it is on the inside. Not only is the school in a Carmen, but some of the classes are taught in the caves of Sacromonte! (See the attached photo) The views from the upper patios are unsurpassed!! I will always be a visitor to Spain, but this is one of the places that I feel most at home.

Here is more information about the school:

https://www.carmencuevas.com

Jamón is not meat, it’s Jamón!

This was a running joke in my Spanish class with one of our vegetarian cohorts. She was discussing the availability of vegetarian dishes in Spain. Our teacher, Rosa said, “Jamón is not meat, it’s Jamón!!!!”

There is a national obsession with this tasty, salty food. In the attached photo, you can see numerous Jamón legs hanging in one of the oldest barres in Granada, Bodegas Castañeda. It has an old dark wood long barre with most people standing to order and eat.

It feels a bit crazy in these types of places but I will write about tapas culture in another post.

Back to Jamon...there are definitely different levels of excellence when it comes to Jamón.

To read more, see this link:

https://www.tienda.com/learn-about-spain/how-to-choose-a-spanish-jamon

There is even a chain of restaurants in Madrid called el Museo del Jamon, elevating it in words to art work! While I appreciate this tasty treat, I find very similar eating fares in Spain, at least in the south. Another discussion about spices in my Spanish class with a different teacher highlighted Spain’s use of salt for many of its flavors including Jamon, cheese, olives, etc...

I do think however, that just like in other parts of the world, as more people come here, they also bring their flavors. Some other types of restaurants are popping up here and there. No matter where you go, buen aproveche!

Flamenco everywhere!!!

One of the special things about Granada is Flamenco is everywhere!!! Now, given my love for it, I of course go out looking for it but isn’t is so easy to find that I feel like I am able to be part of this wonderful city!

1. Shows everyday, in so many places: I have been here for a week and have seen five show in five different venues. Each one had amazing performers! They are professionals who give their upmost to even a small audience of 15 at my last show. The hard work of being a full time professional dancer or musician is a hard one e! I am grateful for them sharing their art!

2. Music in the streets:i If you walk around the Albaicín, one of the oldest neighborhoods, you will hear guitarist and singers tucked away in shaded corners. They are amazing musicians and give a sound score to this cobblestoned, narrow streets.

3. A way to celebrate: Last week was the celebration of Corpus Cristi. Everyday in City hall there was a Flamenco performance from local amateur groups. It was so fun to see these large groups of people doing Flamenco. There was even a Flamenco community group in the parade using castanets.

NOTES ON LEARNING  When you surround yourself in a community that you would like to learn from, it IS easier. You see it in the streets, hear it out the windows, have people using the language everywhere. While the concept of immersion is not a new one, being in Spain is one of the rare, fortunate times that I have been able to do so!

Photo is of Conchi Maya, a beautiful dancer from Motril. I loved her use of her skirt to emphasize energy!!!

Shopped, dressed, did it!

So I did one of the biggies on my bucket list! I dressed up and went to Feria! The day we decided to go, Astra a Flamenco friend and I, went shopping to find dresses, earrings, fans and everything that you might need. I resisted spending even 20.00E on shoes that would be cute, but uncomfortable, hence the tennis shoes in my photo! 😋

After taking a bus to the fair grounds at about 8pm, our adventures lasted only about 2 hours. Let me explain my old lady approach to “doing” Feria.

Imagine your own state or county fair with the rides being multiplied by three or four. After that, there are, in Granada, approximately 100 tents or casetas in lines and columns with different music blasting, and I mean blasting from each one. Now image some of the tents selling only liquor/cañas with regatón and salsa music playing. It was clear that there were tents for certain age groups, including one that might look my own city’s college block. About 20% of the women/girls dress up in extravagant dresses. I was a little old; most of the most beautiful dresses being worn by women in their late teens or 20’s.

In my mind, I was imagining everyone dressed up and doing the sevillanas. I know now that was a bit of an antiquated idea of what Feria is.

I felt like to truly enjoy Feria, one might have it as a long time family tradition and be best done with a group of friends that you really just wanted to go hang out with for hours, something that Spaniards do so well!

While Astra and I had a great time, two hours for me was enough. I am so glad I was able to attend Feria and look forward to more adventures in Spain.

Making new habits

One of the things I love about being able to put yourself in a new place is creating new habits. On my way to school, there is a spot called Casa Pasteles where I sit at the barre each day and mostly have an Americano and media tostada with tomato and salt. Not only is it VERY reasonable but a feel a little bit like I am able to be part of the daily life here.

It is not lost on me that I order an Americano while most Spaniards have it straight up as expresso. Maybe this is more the way of life here.

Another example of this is that when you order they say “Dime” or tell me in English. This might seem direct, I think this is more how it is here, direct but once they know you, they bring you what they already know you want.

LEARNING NOTES I almost, yes almost used subjunctive when asking someone about something. A friend and I went to a tablao in a cave yesterday to watch an American friend dance. It was such a change from the big tablaos with pictures of their family on the wall and their kid taking a photo of us after. While it felt like a maintenance of a traditional art form, I see everywhere in this popular vacation spot, a disappearance of a way of life. People living here can’t afford to do so. I’m glad I am here but always hoping that I am not part of the  problem.

What I love about Spain Celebrations

La Procesión de Corpus Cristi

Spaniards love to celebrate! Celebrate the weekend, celebrate a saint, celebrate with a drink and tapas, you name it! This post will be a little about the Celebration of Corpus Christi.

Landing six weeks after Easter, this celebration is a mix of religious celebration and Feria. Feria is a little like our fairs in the states with roots in agriculture, horse riding and carnival rides. While this part of our fairs are similar, there are a number of differences.

One of those differences is the main celebration locations called casetas. These festival tents are a place for gathering with friends and family, drinking and dancing. Spaniards just get started at 10pm and sometimes the party doesn’t end until the dawn. While I can’t keep this pace, it’s one of the things that makes me love Spain.

The other beautiful part of this celebration is La Procesión. This is a little like a somber, religious parade. This procession was headed by what they call the Big Heads and Giants. These iconic characters represent different people in Spain or locally and characters have fun hitting the viewers with inflated balloons.

Later, members of the church community walk with 4 foot long candles and are mixed with musical groups. The conclusion of the procession is the carrying of a large float by numerous men on their shoulders which many times is Saint Mary or other saints.

Keep Flamenco in your heart during COVID!

It is natural as the year comes to a close to reflect on the last 12 months… and boy, has it been a wild ride! I wanted to send this email because isolation has reinforced my feelings that community is important- I miss you all! I want to thank you for being part of this distant-during-covid group and as our love for Flamenco, dance, music and culture continue, we will again be together. So in the spirit of all things traditional with the end of the year, I have compiled a list of the top ten ways to keep Flamenco in your life in the coming year.

10 WAYS TO KEEP FLAMENCO IN YOUR LIFE!

1. Take a class!

I have had the WONDERFUL opportunity to take fantastic classes with caring teachers from around the world. If you are interested in finding out about some of these opportunities, please let me know. I will be glad to forward you some information about the opportunities.

1. Watch some videos OR live streamed performance.

We live in the wonderful digital age. Here is a list of 3 different Tientos videos, all women with VERY different moving styles. So many videos, so little time!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZR_qRGkaduE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zh3clrcJ4e0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VonO9yRMdFM

1. Think about (maybe start to plan) travel to Spain.

Here is a video to get you inspired!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Tc01YLHwpk&t=190s

1. Make some Spanish inspired food.

https://www.foodandwine.com/appetizers/tapas/tapas-recipes

1. Listen to some of the Flamenco Cante Greats!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4se2ahy6nko

1. Speaking of Flamenco Greats, Watch the documentary on Netflix about contemporary Flamenco artist Israel Galvan. https://www.dancemagazine.com/netflix-move-2648442512.html?rebelltitem=1#rebelltitem1

https://www.dancemagazine.com/israel-galvan-2641250997.html

1. Do some virtual window shopping. Lunares has a page for “Outlet” clothing with costumes as low as 65.00 and I have included a used flamenco clothing Facebook group.

http://lunaresflamenco.com.br/en

Facebook Group: Flamenco Marketplace https://www.facebook.com/groups/1550856305192941 (you may have to join the group).

1. Get inspired by other artists.

https://thriveglobal.com/stories/the-5-things-you-must-sacrifice-to-have-a-better-future/?utm_source=Flipboard%3DThrive

1. Beef up your Spanish. There are many free sites and apps to help you improve your language skills. Duolingo is my favorite, fun, free app!

https://www.duolingo.com/

1. Put on your shoes and dance….for even 5 minutes. Sometimes just getting started is the most difficult part. You know you will always feel better!!!

Love in the time of Covid....

Yes, that was an intended pun from the book by Gabriel Garcia Marquez, “Love in the Time of Cholera”. But it has been an interesting journey during this National and State distancing and Stay at Home orders this last month due to our pandemic.

I am a pubic school dance teacher. Yes, I get paid to teach kids dance all day. It is a rewarding and often times exhausting journey. No matter how tired my aging dancer body gets, I would trade working full time for the economic and personal tragedies that are occurring now. Our country and the world are experiencing a pandemic that I hope, will be once within my lifetime. Maybe I will write again on the other side of this experience. Maybe it will be about a return to what we might say is our ‘new’ normal. Despite the sadness and sometimes depression that I feel for a loss of something I can’t even put into words, this experience has given us an unexpected gift, a gift of time.

We have been asked to work, live and BE at home, unless we need to leave for necessities. My every other week trip to the grocery store is a big journey. Compared to my life before where a minimum of an hour round trip commute and commitments of classes, rehearsals and experiences, this time seems slowed somehow.

My daily life consists of working remotely for school, jogging and daily flamenco practice and classwork. This is a rare time in my life where I have been FORCED to do less. Even if I had wanted to leave, there is no where to go and nothing to distract me.

I know I am one of the lucky ones. I still have an income. No one, so far in my family, has been affected by Covid-19. I have food to eat and a home where I feel safe. The question during this time is, what is really most important to us? Can we hold onto this opportunity to reflect and focus. It is a chance to be grateful for the ones we love; time spent cooking, eating and being; time to reflect on our life before and time to decide what should come back in when things get back to their crazy pace….and they will eventually. So now, as I even have time to write I wonder, What will be after?

Me rehearsing during our Covid-19 pandemic.

Want to know what to say at a flamenco performance?

I know this is a short blog... more a post! But I wanted to include this website information on my page. Ole!

https://www.ambienteflamenco.com/resources.php?resource_id=3

How to become a Flamenco Dancer in America!

I remember when I saw Flamenco for the first time. It was actually on the television, there is not much Flamenco in Idaho. I was drawn to its passion, commitment to performance, energy... it had me hooked. My dancing career was focused on performing contemporary modern ballet at the time and I had little time for more dancing, other than working with the dance company I was performing with at the time. 

Flamenco was never far from my mind. I dabbled, as one might say, mostly because there were no classes available in my town. When Julianna Thomas returned to Boise and began teaching, I was inspired! It has become a journey that I have continued these past six or seven years. 

One of the challenges I have found, is the availability of classes and community. This will be one of the topics I will be discussing in future blogs. This blog is more of a journal, so any apologies if it is not up to date. Please write if you are interested in a topic or just want to chat.